Ah the famous connected switches for ceiling lights… and that damn neutral that is not present on installations in France. It's annoying eh? Oh yeah ! Well, Les Alexiens, always ready to bend over backwards for you, have found a switch that works without neutral! Oh yes ! But why put a connected switch when we can have smart bulbs? For several reasons: managing a chandelier of 3 or 5 bulbs is not always easy, certain forms of bulbs are not easily found, just like certain powers not available in connected ...
And it's there Zemi brandsmart, well known to our loyal readers, who gives us this wonderful gift! The brand is not at its first recessed switch, but all required a neutral. But this one, nay! Not only does it work on our catches the right way, but it exists in single, double or triple ways! Of course, he respects the CE standards, FCC (equivalent for the USA) and RoHS (European standard for the reduction of hazardous materials in electronic products). Sold between € 18,10 and € 20,29 depending on the number of routes, working with Smart Life and therefore Alexa, it is excellent value for money!
Zemi switch without neutralsmart : a very beautiful object
Our switch is packed in a neutral cardboard put in a relatively colorful and at the same time quite uncluttered sheath. The main image just tells us that it works in Wi-Fi, one of the slices that it will be with Smart Life and the back gives us the characteristics (false). THEEverything is of good quality and allows good protection of the product.
What do we find in our packaging? If everything goes well, a switch. But that's not all, there is also a bag of 2 screws, for an installation guide (business card format) in very succinct English and a capacitor. The installation guide is not very detailed but goes to the basics: wiring, installation, installation of the capacitor and commissioning with Smart Life. We will come back to it but it is not clear on the installation of the module precisely ...
Design level, we are on a switch resembling a switch for rolling shutters like two drops of water: same size, same shape… The facade is made of heat-tempered glass de 4 mm d'épaisseur and 8,5 cm side, with a white background and has between one and three pressure zones depending on the number of channels. This is only a personal opinion, but we are quite a fan of this design at Les Alexiens. If you already have connected switches for shutters at home, it will harmonize your interior (yes, it's the detail that makes the difference!). A small wifi wave logo at the top left puts a little touch of madness on this switch.
The "buttons" are used both to turn on and off the light by pressing on a pallet of conductive material. We are not on springs, to avoid inadvertent ignition. The mechanical part is therefore limited to the maximum to avoid premature aging of the elements, but electronic problems can take over. No system is perfect. For those who know, we are on a system identical to that of roller shutters with the difference that there is only one "button" per ceiling light. In our case, it is a double track that has been tested, but with only one ceiling light.
The depth of transplanting block is about 2,5 cm and this means that it can be set up in all French flush-mounting boxes without any problem. We were given some time ago to have in our hands a built-in connected plug which was far too deep and could not be put in most boxes. It was our fear, unfounded for once. Once set up and well glued to the wall, count a small centimeter of thickness.
The transplanting block will precisely differ from what we find with switches operating with neutral because, as you can see, only phase arrivals are available. The transplanting blocks have a 5 mm depth, which makes it possible not to strip the wires too much and to hold the cable well. No complaints.
At the level of technical characteristics : it works on alternating current 170-240V and 300 W load limit per lane and not 600 as noted on the packaging. Despite everything, this allows you to come and connect fairly supplied ceiling lights in GU10 or via E27 for example. Just be careful not to exceed this cumulative power. Regarding the Wi-Fi connection: 2.4 GHz only, IEEE802.11 b / g / n.
Switch without neutral: an almost simple installation
On the fact, installation shouldn't be a problem, but respect a minimum of safety rules like not to install them without cutting off the current or other arrival (if one can avoid losing a reader…). The diagram to follow is relatively simple for the switch part as such. Connect the phase of your circuit to L et the return phase of your lamp on L2. That's all. If you have a double switch, the connection will be a little different (L, L1 for the first and (L) L3 for the second)… You see, nothing to add… Oh, sorry, we have to talk about the capacitor.
The condenser is not to be confused with a condenser which makes your refrigerator work by condensing (liquefying) the refrigerating gas in the grid at the back to repeat a cycle via the expansion valve, the evaporator, the compressor, the condenser ... In short , This is an other story. We didn't want to throw in a cold. The capacitor will come and connect at the level of one of the ceiling light arrivals (between neutral and phase) in order to compensate for the residual current resulting from the use of this type of switch without neutral. Indeed, when you put the switch in place, your ceiling light will either light permanently or flash (which was the case in our case). To avoid this, come and place the capacitor in your ceiling light.
Where the installation guide is not clear is that it gives the impression of requiring this installation while the bulbs are on. Of course, this is not the case, unless you put life insurance on your spouse's head and ask them to do so. It is therefore necessary to install the capacitor with the open circuit (therefore the current off). It doesn't take long. The complete installation took 10 minutes during our test. It is extremely simple, if not this connection of the small module (only one to connect even if you have installed a 3-way).
Once powered up and installed (see a bit below for pairing) we see that the switch has a slight self-light in blue color. Much less important than those for shutters. When the light is on, the light is red. Unlike those already tested for roller shutters, this lighting is far from intense and goes almost unnoticed, on the other hand, impossible to extinguish. However, it is far from annoying and in the dark, it is much easier.
Switch without neutral: use via Smart Life
Earthsmart uses application Smart Life or Tuya for all of its products and this one is no exception. No difficulty to install it. We'll see this together pretty quickly, but we have some more complete tutorials, especially for roller shutter switches, very close in operation. Activation of the Skill Smart Life is of course necessary. Just like having an account Smart Life via the app.
To put the switch into pairing mode, you will need to press one of the resistive buttons for at least 5 seconds. It will then start flashing blue fairly quickly. We suggest that you do this before reassembling everything (switch and ceiling light) to ensure that everything is properly connected. On the other hand, the risk is to have to do it again if during reassembly, because of a tightening problem, you detach a wire ... But even before doing this, if your connection is done correctly, your lamp should not flash nor emit a weak light, proof that the capacitor is doing its job ... or that you forgot to connect a wire ...
To install it with Smart Life, open the application, press the small "+" at the top right and select " electrical engineering " (it slams anyway!) then " light switch " (it may be noted Wi-Fi at the end depending on the version of the app). Then connect to 2,4 GHz Wi-Fi network only, password and let yourself be guided. Change the name of the switch because the base name is not easy to use in voice control
If you opt for a single lane, this will be the final name of your switch. If, on the other hand, you have installed a double or triple lane, you will have to rename each entry. Either the name of the switch and the name of the various lights connected to it. So you can either order everything at once or individually. The names you choose will go up under Alexa. Besides, if you already have the Skill Smart Life activated, the switch (and the sub-units) will go up directly without any intervention on your part. If not, start a search with the "+" top right, in the part "Devices" et select Tuya then let it be.
Thanks to the application, you can set up timers for the switch or have it come on at certain times. You also have the possibility, via the scenarios, to turn on or off at particular times of the day (sunset for example) or in specific situations (closing the shutters and switching on the light in the process). With Alexa, you are free to let yourself be tempted by a routine that goes well. It works like a connected light bulb because that's the end.
And in use, what does it give? Well finally it's very good and very simple. If you use it by voice, you should expect a slight latency, half a second to 1 second, but it depends on your network and servers. It's not Zigbee but there is nothing bad about it. We stay on normal values for Wi-Fi devices. In physics (useful if you don't want to talk or if there is a Wi-Fi outage), it's instantaneous because it goes live. It's hard to say more than that: the switch works well and it has relatively acceptable latency.
hello alexiens (nes) of all stripes here is a great new one, even if I am still angry with the terms home automation the test is speaking and in manual that I am that enlightens my lantern (at the same time it is the goal of this switch)
We try to popularize as much as possible! Excellent product that will simplify the life of many people, because pulling a neutral wire is indeed not so easy when you do not know electricity. 🙂
Hello, I bought this switch and I have operating problems but that is not the problem. I still have a quick question, are there any switches that could replace the switches that I currently have that are connected back and forth?
Hello, extremely interesting article, however, I find it difficult to understand one thing, I have an installation without neutral with 5 LED spots in series, must I take 5 capacitors or put 1 threshold on the first LED, because your conclusion will leave me in doubt.
Thank you for your reply
Hello,
Yes, it's starting to happen ... A solution can also be the ZigBee (see our last test). Otherwise, there is a Sonoff system that we will test shortly: https://amzn.to/2qo8PL4.
Hello,
If they're in series, only one should do.
cordially
Hello,
Do you know if it is possible to use this switch back and forth? If not, are there other models without neutral that allow it?
Thank you for your answer, your site is great !!!
Thank you! 😀
Bonjour,
I bought a model with 2 buttons, my installation is composed like this:
1 circuits of 5 classic LEDs L1
1 circuit of 5 LED wifi tuya L3
I put the capacitor on the L1 circuit,
The L1 circuit works on the other hand the L3 circuit does not turn off and the LEDs flicker from + to + as I turn them on with the application.
Should I add a capacitor on this circuit too?
Thank you in advance for your answer I am a little lost and I find little information on that.
So I answer myself, I had not thought about it but it was necessary to make an automation to assign it to the button for the connected bulbs, the concern of the flickering of the leds remains to be resolved
Hello,
After looking at the diagram more ready, it is necessary that the capacitor is put on the circuit L1. On the other hand, not sure that this is an exact science, so to see if the problem is solved by trying to connect L1 to L2 for example or to swap L1 and L3 ... Another point may be interesting to test, if the Wifi LEDs are replaced by conventional LEDs, does the problem persist?
Hello,
Thanks for this very interesting post.
Do you know the reference of the capacitor please or tell us a little more?
thank you in advance
cordially
So I connect the capacitor to the circuit of the connected LEDs and the flickering persists, it is more pronounced when I make the whites clearer, with the colors it is hardly visible, on the other hand it performs an ignition all by itself. or an extinction in a random and frequent way which I do not understand dutout given that it is scenarios of the application.
Is it possible that the capacitor is under calibrated?
I answer myself definitely 😉
I discussed with the seller of aliexpress and therefore a single capacity is not enough, you have to add one or put LEDs of at least 10w, mine are 5W.
So if this post can help and avoid looking, well it will already be that, it sends me one, it will take 15/20 days but at least I would have the one that is necessary, I will indicate the reference of the one that I would receive to help those who need
Hello,
Can you tell me if the capacitors are supplied with the switches.
And if not, would you have a reference or a link to find some.
Thank you in advance for your answer and for this top post.
Hi,
Thank you! 🙂
Yes, of course, it is well supplied with the switch. 😉
Good night
Hello, at the moment I have RF switches ordered by alexa via Broadlink because no neutral in my house. But what bothers me with this installation is that I have no status feedback! My question is this is the switch does it allow? Good weekend to all !
Bonjour.
Having an alarm with sensors that operate at 433MHZ, is there a risk of malfunction?
Hello,
No, no risk, this switch works on the 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi band, very far from the 433 MHz. 🙂
Good week
Hello,
Here is what I just read, in the reviews of the link you leave for the purchase:
“Please note, this product works at 433 Mhz in addition to wifi. If you have motion sensors at your home operating at 433 Mhz, these will command your switch with the consequence of turning your lighting on or off each time you pass the sensor. I reported this problem to the supplier, I advise him to modify the description of the article by highlighting Wifi & 433Mhz. Regarding the supplier, I can only recommend him, a customer service who answers you immediately and who tries to find a quick solution to your questions. Thanks to the team. Cdt 20 Nov 2019 11:28 »
Hello,
Indeed, after verification we confirm what you have read. Unfortunately, we had received a test model without any documentation shortly before its marketing… This point had therefore escaped us.
Thanks for your feedback.
So, for people with this type of sensor, only the “zigBee” solution remains?
Or equivalent… But the ZigBee is a solution to be considered, in my opinion it is the home automation protocol that offers the best quality / price ratio to date. Its advantages are undeniable over Wi-Fi, which I personally defended tooth and nail for a long time, but reality often catches up with us ... 😉 The ZigBee consumes much less, offers reduced latency and a rather moderate investment in the end with a product quality always at the rendezvous. Moreover, it is a much more secure protocol than RF433. 🙂
Thank you for all these answers, I have one last one, however, is the HUB Hue by Phillips compatible with Zemi switches and ZigBee socketssmart and does it work with Life smart.
Hello,
No, the Hue ecosystem is pretty closed. Only the “friends of Hue” brands are compatible with the Philips bridge: Osram Smart+, Ledvance, Ikea, Innr, etc… For the switches, you have in particular Busch-Jeager, Niko, Vimar, NodOn, Senic & Gira… 🙂
Thank you again, I just have to find a good quality and compatible ZigBee hub Alexa/ life smart
hello, I put the ones that I received and that works
CHAMPION X2
MPX 0.33uF K
275v 310v 350v
A. My opinion the spots are mounted in parallel and not in series. if they were mounted in series, they would light up with low intensity
Hello everybody
After a few test cycles with another 0,33% F, rigid-pin capacitor (more practical in the DCL box that I have), the switch no longer wants to go out (the red light goes out, and the switch no longer responds to touch or WiFi).
Where could this possibly come from? Is the capacitor already exhausted?
Have I missed any essential characteristic other than operating voltage and capacitance that causes my substitution capacitor to not be sufficient?
I would like your lanterns to light mine ^^
Hi,
Small feedback, I ordered 2 buttons to try and they work perfectly. Thank you again to you for this discovery.
However, I will have another question.
Do these switches work with a two-way line and on a line with a remote switch?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Good night.
Hello I bought a Zemi switchsmart single lane
I'm plugged in ok I control it with Alexa so ok too, the only fault is that it turns on and off all by itself
cordially
Hello,
It seems that it is a contact pb with the front face which should not be inserted well and which presses on the ignition system. It should be removed and put back.
Thank you for your answer even with the front panel remove the button s on and off three only
Hello,
I bought several of these switches but they are systematically interfered with by my wireless alarm. As soon as I open or close a door or window or a motion detector sends a signal to the control unit… The lights go on or off. However my alarm does not work in wifi it is just a radio signal sent by the door or motion detectors.
How can I solve this problem because without solution I am forced to remove all switches.
Small precision I have no problem with the shutter switches, the connected sockets, nor the motorization of the garage door, which are also all controllable on smart Life. Only light switches without neutrals are the problem.
Hello, do you have a wireless alarm, because I have the same problem because of my alarm which inadvertently turns on and off my lights as soon as it sends a signal to the control panel.
Hello,
Apart from changing switches or alarms, we have no solution for you ... These switches use 433 MHz RF to communicate with each other, probably like your alarm. Do the switches cut off or trigger your alarms?
Hello,
No, the switches do not interfere in any way with the alarm, it is only the various detectors of the alarm which turn the lights on and off when passing in front of the detectors and when opening doors and windows without the alarm is activated.
It's really badly done because for wifi switches, I don't understand why they pick up a radio signal.
hello everyone, connection is successful but my ceiling light comes back on by itself after 20 minutes. do you have an idea ?
Hello,
Sorry to reply only now, but your message has been filtered by our spam filter.
Have you connected the capacitor correctly?
Hi
What brand of capacitor do I need?
Possible link Amazon
cordially
Bonjour,
I just ordered it, I have a switch that manages a socket and a ceiling light (lamp has them).
Will I be forced to place the capacitor?
If so, will a capacitor also be needed for the socket?
Thank you
Hello,
A priori, no, there may be a slight residual current there which should not be a problem. The only problem with LED bulbs is that there is enough residual current to turn them on.
Have a good day
Hello
if someone is interested I have 6 pieces 1 gang for sale contact me cdt
Hello,
Sorry, we are not Le Bon Coin! 🙂
Hello I have 2 switches in my hallway to turn on the same lamp, I think that's what we call coming and going
Basically I have the red thread and 2 purple threads
Do you know how I have to connect them for it to work please. Or if he makes me other switches
Thank you
Good evening, have you found a solution for your coming and going? I'm very interested, thank you
Hello,
A 2-way switch is therefore to connect 2 different ceiling lights?
Are there 2 capacitors supplied?
Hello,
Yes, it is for two different luminaires and, a priori yes, there are indeed two capacitors on you take two channels. 😉
Thank you for your reply !
But on your test we see that 1 capacitors.
Last question is it necessary to put a capacitor when it is a ceiling light with several non-led bulbs?
Hello,
There is effectively only one capacitor. In the case of mounting bulbs in series, the installation guide details the location where to put it.
It seems like the capacitor is needed anyway, but it doesn't hurt to try. If this does not work, the bulbs will remain glowing even if they are off.
Hello,
At the moment, it does not work with the comings and goings… If we have other information, we will write an article because there are many of you in this case.
Strange anyway… 2 channels but only one capacitor.
Hello,
I have the same problem.
Did you find a solution ?
Can we remove the 433mhz rf part of the switch?
Goods.
Hello,
I found the solution!!!
Just unsolder the 6.7458 rf receiver.
Cedric can you tell us where to find this receiver and the procedure please
Thank you
My switches have arrived! I installed a "1 way" and it works fine, on the other hand I wanted to put a "2 way" and I have a strange problem: The 2 switches must be ON for 1 ceiling light to work on the other hand. there is one of the two who does not have this problem. (I noticed that on the classic switch there was a small bridge on the phase inputs.
As if the phase did not reach the 2nd ceiling light until the 1st is on.
It's quite surprising ... Try to reproduce the previous connection. 🙂
I would have liked but on the new switch there is only one phase input. On the old one there were 2 two and one bridges between: /
Problem fixed ! I just swapped 2 wires x)
Ah! Good news! 🙂
Hello, I just received my two-way switch to turn on sports on the one hand, and projectors on the other hand, and the connections went well I think. However, I have a problem: on the two buttons present, one turns everything on, the other turns everything off! What I would like is one button for sports, and the other for spotlights.
Do I have to redo my connections? That I have programmed it to work as I want it to?
Thank you for your help.
Indeed it looks like a connection error. I had a similar concern I had inverted the phase and the wire which goes on a ceiling light.
Thank you for your reply. For now, I managed to connect one (L + L1), it turns on and it turns off, no problem.
I have the other two wires now to connect: one will join the 1st on L, while the second goes on L3 is that correct?
I think I have found the solution in the meantime, because it works well now. There is only one of the two wires that will connect to L3, the other will not join the first one connected to L3, is that right? Should it be condemned by cutting off the end to avoid any false contact?
Hello, could you tell us if your switches are functioning correctly after your intervention? And if so could you tell me where is this receiver rf 6.7458.
Hello experts
I have a question regarding the capacitor. In your illustration it is with a domino.
My installation is with a DCL connector instead of the domino. Would you be able to tell me the connection procedure? I'm afraid of doing wrong.
cordially
Good-morning Paul,
It should be placed at the level of the arrival of the wires in the DCL, therefore in the ceiling. In principle, there shouldn't be any problem at all.
Hello Jean-Christophe,
Thank you for your reply. Forgive my ignorance in electricity but would it be possible for you to comment on my following image: https://ibb.co/mbhSyLN (sorry if the terms I'm using are incorrect)
I represented:
- the DCL
- the capacitor
1. Do I have to connect the capacitor according to the red arrow (so I only touch the DCL)?
2. you said 'in the ceiling', does that mean I have to remove the ceiling cover (in green) and plug in the capacitor?
Thank you for your help.
Thank you Jean christophe for your answer.
Hello alexians, I also installed some for my lighting, now I am looking for it in back and forth operation. Do you have an idea for that?
Hello, Alexians, can we use this switch with a Tuya zigbee bridge? Thank you in advance for your answers
Hello Herve
It is a switch that works with Tuya in Wi-Fi ... Opt instead for this model from the same brand, compatible with any ZigBee Tuya bridge and available in 3 versions (1-2-3 ways): https://www.lesalexiens.com/labo-test-alexa/test-zemismart-interrupteur-zigbee-sans-neutre/ .
Bonjoru Hervé! Yes of course. This is even what we did. It's a Zemi Hubsmart but above all a Tuya Hub.
Hello yes it does not work because I have this problem. As soon as I open or close a door, a window or a motion sensor detects movement, the lights turn on or off by themselves. Forced to remove the switches or the qlarl ', I opted for safety suddenly my switches are useless.
Hello,
I had exactly the same problem with switches acquired on Aliexpress for wifi only. For a long time I had inadvertent ignition problems or related to RF events.
Result, by unsoldering the 6.7458 module everything is back to normal.
Good to know, thank you for this feedback! 🙂
I ordered a zenimar switch with two buttons, I received in 10 days on aliexpress, the switch is now intended for function with or without neutral. I installed it to light my living room and dining room with 6 gu 10 per piece it works without capacitor
Good to know, thank you for this feedback! 🙂
Hello
I just bought the same ones in duplicate but I am a little lost for the connections because I end up with a purple wire one red one brown and two oranges. Double switch
Hello,
Unfortunately we cannot give you blind answers ...
We invite you to join our Facebook community where connoisseurs and / or electricity professionals can answer you if you post a photo ...
Bonne fin de journée
Bjr, Did you still have your switches?
Hello
Yes always
Hello, can this switch work as follows: 3 switches for the same light (back and forth)
and for example in 2 gangs (2 buttons on an interuptor, is not it?) 1 in simple and the other back and forth ???
no photos of the 2 or 3 gangs ??
Hello,
Sorry for the delay, your messages have been filtered by our system ...
For your problem, the ideal is either to keep your existing switches and to opt for micromodules of the type Sonoff Mini that manage the back and forth, or to opt for ZigBee bulbs with switches that will act as remote controls like the Earthsmart presented here.
Have a good day
Hello, I am very interested in your article.
I would like to do the same thing as you but without changing the wall switch and I would therefore like to know if there are phase-only modules which accept the use of an external switch and if possible supplied with a remote control.
Basically having the option of using the mechanical switch, the remote control or the app /alexa at the same time.
Thank you in advance for your assistance
Hello,
There are RF models out there, but if you don't have a neutral then the ZigBee is ideal. Admittedly, it requires a bridge, but this protocol offers many advantages, including very low consumption compared to Wi-Fi, better range, super low latency. And you can use remote controls! 😉
Merci de votre réponse
I have trouble understanding what I need… I need a zigbee module behind my switch and a remote control, but suddenly, which ones? Most of the diagrams show a neutral or a switch but not both ...
Hello. I ordered this switch without neutral. My luminaire is a led panel (60 * 60cm) and I had not thought that there was a transformer for this kind of luminaire…. Should we also put the capacitor? Is the supplied one compatible with the transformer? In advance, thank you for your answer.
Good evening. I have a problem with this switch. When the light is off, the button is red, and when the light is on, the button is blue…. it should be the other way around ... Is there something I missed? Thank you
Hello,
Maybe you just reversed the threads?
Hello,
No idea, to tell the truth, but a priori not since the transformer should play the role of the capacitor. Indeed, the latter serves to absorb the residual current that you should not have with a transformer.
Have a good day
Thank you for your reply. I tried to swap the wires but the result is the same. Perhaps it is suddenly defective…. I will contact the seller.
Indeed, after assembly I confirm that it works well without capacitor. Thank you!!
Thank you for this feedback, it's always good to know! 😀
Have a good day
With pleasure ... Indeed, I do not see any other possible explanation. Zemismart is very accommodating in general, do not hesitate to contact him! 😉
Hello Michel
I have exactly the same concerns. Did you get a response from the seller?
Thank you
Hello, has anyone found a solution? I am also a taker 😷
Hello, after putting the capacitor the led bulb flickers, what solution?
Hello Nicolas,
It's strange ... the capacitor is between the arrival of the circuit and the bulb and is well connected to the neutral and to the phase of the bulb?
Hi
On a 2-gang switch, when by mistake you touch the two switches at the same time, the switch performs a reset disconnects from the wifi: you have to redo a pairing and redo the scenarios
Do you have a tip?
Hello Xavier, it's quite strange, we did not notice this type of problem because it is necessary to press and hold one of the buttons for the reset normally… Are the connections made correctly? No reversal? Otherwise, it looks like a fault ...
Bonsoir
I confirm that touching both switches at the same time produces a reset of the device and a loss of wifi connection.
I also agree with you that it takes a long time to press a switch to be able to pair it.
It is a recurring defect of this kind of switch (see the opinions on Amazon)
I have bought this twice and all double gang switches have this flaw.
On the other hand, not having bought a three gang or four gang, I do not know if this also happens on this type of object.
If you could enlighten me on this point I will buy in this case 3 gangs or XNUMX gangs to replace the defective switches.
Thank you in advance for your answers
Good evening Xavier.
The best, in my opinion, remains the switch connected with physical buttons, push type, from Zemismart. Less risk of pressing two buttons at the same time.
Hello everyone, I bought several 1 gang switch and when I turn on the bulb it sizzles and even louder when the capacitor is plugged in, do you have a solution? The bulb does not sizzle with a conventional switch. This does it to me on all switches and all connections ... Otherwise everything works perfectly except for this annoying noise in the long run and / or potentially dangerous
Hello,
Try without the capacitor. This is not always essential, it depends on the installations and the bulbs in place. 🙂
Have a good day
Thank you for your quick reply! Even without a capacitor the crackle is there and even with different bulbs tested. Do you have a solution?
Unfortunately, no, it's hard to know where the problem could come from like that… 🙁
Bonjour.
More than a year later, have you found a solution for a back and forth? I only have that at home, without neutral of course, and despite my research I can't find anything ...
The Sonoff module communicated in response by the editorial staff - https://amzn.to/2qo8PL4 - and which I have not seen the test mentioned, which was to take place "soon", does not exist without neutral to my knowledge.
Thank you in advance for enlightening me (it is the case to say it) if you have solved the problem, and happy holidays of the end of the year.
Hi,
Like Michel. On October 20, when I plug in the switch I just received, the LED is red and it turns blue when the light is on. Weird. An idea ? The wires are connected correctly, I tested.
Another question, it works in 433 MHz?
Thank you for the feedback and for this excellent site 👍🏼🤩 Top!
Hello,
If you only have to-and-fro and no neutral, the ZigBee is reaching out to you because, although there are now Wi-Fi switches without neutral, the chips need a power supply to function where they are. the ZigBee is satisfied with simple batteries.
Have a good day
Hello,
Were you able to find a solution?
I have the exact same problem on my side.
Hello,
No, I have tried everything, nothing works. Red off, Blue on.
I tried with a led bulb. The horror ! Terrible crackling, with and without the capacitor.
I highly doubt the quality of these switches.
Not to mention that the back is regtangular, not round like the one in this test.
I'll try another brand and we'll see.
Hello,
Did you find a solution ?
I have the same problem with a led bulb. With an old woman, it's okay.
Thank you
Hello,
How to connect the capacitor? what material should be provided for the connection of this one? If I understand correctly compared to the photo of the test, a domino is enough? and it comes with? otherwise what type of domino to buy?
Hi,
So, if the back is rectangular, it is probably because the model is not suitable for the European market ... If you buy on Chinese platforms, be careful of that! 😉
Purchased on AliExpress, in the brand's store !!
Ok, so it's ideal, but we must admit that it is quite faithful to the Ali spirit: an "organized bazaar". 😉 Do not hesitate to contact them, they are very accommodating. 🙂
Hello me my led spots are connected in series suddenly they light up weakly (I did not put a capacitor) how can I solve the problem? Thank you
Hello,
You need a capacitor so the role is precisely to avoid that by storing the residual electricity. 🙂
Ok thanks can you tell me where can i find this? Especially which model I'm not good at electricity
Hello, I have a strange problem, I took a switch with a single button (and a gang) and I succeeded in pairing it with Alexa but I can only turn on the light. Do you have an idea? In summary qd I connect the 2 wires it is off, if I order the ignition it is good, it lights up, but when I ask to turn it off again nothing happens. It's possible?
Hi,
I have a weird problem, I can turn on the light via switch but not turn off, Any idea please? i have a simple one button switch and 2 L and L2 ports.
Thank you
Thank you for the tutorial which interests me greatly for my lighting.
My circuit:
A switch that turns on 7 led spotlights.
The aim is to control this via smart life and Alexa as I already do with my roller shutters.
I bought a Girier brand switch to keep the base switch and make it connected. Unfortunately I could not make the connection. So I am moving towards switches connected without neutral thinking that it will be easier and I see that it is necessary to put capacitors at each spot.
Do you have any idea of the easiest way I can do so that I can finally control my lighting remotely?
Thank you in advance and good luck.
Hello,
thank you for your articles!
I am trying to connect the light in my living room but it is managed by three push buttons connected to a disruptor on my electrical panel.
Can I replace one of my three push buttons with this?
Thank you!
Hello,
Unfortunately no, they weren't made for that, but Legrand now manufactures connected remote switches: https://www.legrand.fr/pro/solutions/le-logement-connecte/controler-les-eclairages-avec-le-telerupteur-connecte
In my opinion, this is ideal. 😉
Have a good day
Hello,
I have successfully installed several Switches.
There is one who resists me. When I connect it. The light is on but the switch does not work. Looks like he's not getting power… I don't understand. An idea ?:)
See you soon,
John Jerome
Hello,
Wouldn't it be on a back and forth?
No coming and going. On the other hand, I have the impression that it comes from the bulb. I have a filament led globe bulb (4w) the light stays on and the switch does not work and does not even emit light. When I put on a Philips Hue, I don't have to worry anymore, the switch turns on and that donction .. Strange, isn't it?
Hello,
No coming and going. I just tested with a "classic" Philipe Hue bulb and it works. When I put the Globe bulb with Led filament (bought at Leroy Merlin), it stays on and the switch is inoperative (it does not even light up).
I admit that I don't understand ...
Hi,
Indeed, it is quite strange ... Perhaps it is defective?
I do not know. It works correctly on a classic switch 🙃☺️
The mysteries of technology… 😅 Not being an electrician, it's hard to tell you more, but I think it comes from the fact that it is a problem linked to the interconnected / connected bulb couple. Apart from ZigBee, this association poses a lot of concerns ...
Hello JJ,
Yes, with some bulbs you need a capacitor and that seems to be the case with you. No problem with the Hue because it is autonomous in itself and self-feeds.
Hello Courbassier,
A no, this is not normal… There seems to be a connection fault within the device itself. If you physically turn off the switch, does it work?
Hello I have the same switch except with the neutral in 2 way everything works correctly on the other hand where I do not understand these that when my 2 ceiling lights are off the indicator lights of the keys are red when it should be blue apparently is conversely when my ceiling light its on the lights are blue when it should be red a solution to my problem?